VACATION DETAILS

Tuscany is a charmed land, equally blessed by the genius of man and nature, and often by the combined efforts of both. Think of the vineyards: rows of baby green vines that manage somehow to march in arrow-straight formation up the gently rolling hillsides, bounded by single files of darker green cypress trees, snaking sandy roads leading to rust-colored farmhouses and moss-coated castles, symmetrically rounded hilltops surmounted by towns so homogeneous as to seem one single building. Every inch of land has been sculpted, first by the elements and then by generations of inhabitants whose goals were always twofold: make the land produce as much as possible, make the land as beautiful as possible. Tuscany enchants us today because it holds together as a region, from the tiniest hamlet to Florence the Magnificent. For the living proof, take a short walk one day along the sides of the Belvedere in Florence: you will leave behind the traffic and suddenly find yourself strolling down quiet lanes bounded by tall stone walls, cypress trees and creamy-colored villas.

The Leaning Tower is, of course, Pisa's main attraction. Even before three of its eight stories were constructed (building began in 1173 and continued until 1350), it had begun to lean. In 1990, the instability of the tower made it necessary to close it to visitors. Fortunately, an extensive program to rebalance the tower was successful in slowly righting the structure to its original degree of "lean." Now, thanks to modern engineering, the tower and its 294 stairs are once again open for climbing.

The tower is on the Campo dei Miracoli, a large, grassy square that's a pleasant place to relax. While you're there, visit the Baptistry, which contains a beautiful baptismal font and pulpit by Nicola Pisano; the Romanesque Cathedral di San Zeno, with its silver altar and figures by Brunelleschi; and the Camposanto Cemetery. All in white, the medieval buildings and the wall of the cemetery form a beautiful thematic whole. Stop at the 16th-century church and Palazzo dei Cavalieri, the piazza and the National Museum of San Matteo (excellent collection of 12th- through 15th-century art). And if you have time, visit Pisa's other leaning tower at the Church of San Michele degli Scalzi: Completed in the 13th century, this seldom-visited tower is worth a look, too.

It's also fun just to walk around Pisa. The city is very compact, with many narrow streets and a great ambience. We suggest seeing it on a day trip from Florence, perhaps in combination with Lucca, just 13 mi/20 km northeast. Another possible stop is Pistoia, which has a cathedral and baptistery in the Pisan-Romanesque style and the Ceppo Hospital (L'Ospedale de Ceppo), which has a brightly painted and enameled terra-cotta frieze by Giovanni della Robbia. If you want to see Pisa and another town all in one day, get up very early.